Sevilla Stole My Heart (And Made Me Want to Move In)
Part 2 of our Spanish adventure - featuring rooftop revelations, shopping discoveries, and why GPS should come with relationship counseling
After Barcelona's whirlwind energy, I thought I was prepared for anything Spain could throw at me. I was not prepared for Sevilla. This city didn't just capture my heart—it straight-up stole it, buried it somewhere in the cobblestone maze of Santa Cruz, and left me planning my return before I'd even checked out.
Mabel and I ended our Barcelona adventure by boarding the fast train to Seville on Saturday morning. Five hours and several character encounters later (including a cute puppy with a cute dad, a Spanish woman who was basically Mrs. Kravitz from Bewitched reincarnated, and a cranky young couple whose toddler had clearly missed her siesta), we rolled into Sevilla.
Pro tip: High-speed trains in Spain are basically moving entertainment venues. Pack snacks, embrace the characters, and prepare for the best people-watching of your life.
Our Perfect Sevilla Base
We booked an Airbnb for our first two days that turned out to be location gold. Perfectly walkable but blissfully quiet, with air conditioning that could rival the Arctic and a bed so comfortable I briefly considered shipping it home. Not Instagram-worthy in the slightest, but sometimes you need function over photography—and this place had everything Mabel and I needed.
The weather was absolutely glorious, though it did get deliciously steamy in the late afternoon—perfect siesta timing, if you ask me.
Walking (And Riding) Our Way Through Paradise
Triana, Seville Spain
We walked everywhere, and I mean everywhere. The river walks became our daily ritual, Mabel and I crossing back and forth to Triana where we'd park ourselves at riverside cafes and pretend we lived there. But when the heat and exhaustion hit (and yes, we're those tourists), we succumbed to a horse and carriage ride through Parque de Maria Luisa.
Before you judge: it was absolutely magical. Our driver moonlighted as a flamenco singer and regaled us with historical "facts" (at least we hope they were facts) as we clip-clopped through the Plaza de España and ended at the Cathedral. Sometimes being a tourist is exactly what you need.
Following Our Charm (And Mabel's FOMO)
Picture this: Mabel and I are wandering the streets looking for dinner, craning our necks up at the spectacular Cathedral, when Mabel suddenly stops dead in her tracks. She's spotted what looks like the coolest bar ever, with fun music floating down from a rooftop somewhere above us.
Now, Mabel is a constant victim of FOMO, so naturally she marches straight up to the doorman. "Is it possible to get up to that bar?" she asks with the confidence of someone who's never met a closed door she couldn't charm her way through.
He looks at us with barely concealed sarcasm: "Sure, just take the elevator and then a set of stairs to the roof. If you have cocktails, you're welcome to sit up there."
So we did. And that's how we found ourselves at the EME Catedral Mercer Hotel rooftop bar (definitely going on my "next time" list), sipping delicious drinks while watching the moon rise over the Cathedral like something out of a romance novel.
We ended up chatting with some guys—yes, we're too old and too gay to say those words, but here we are. One of them, a British guy named Sonny, casually mentioned his favorite restaurant in Seville was El Traga. Even better? He had a 10pm reservation he couldn't use. "Just tell them you're Sonny's Aunties," he said with a grin.
Our best friend Kara has this philosophy about "following your charm," and sometimes the universe rewards that kind of trust. Mabel and I were absolutely following our charm that night—and by now, we'd fully embraced the Spanish dining schedule of eating at 10pm and loving every minute of it.
The walk to El Traga was enchanting (everything in Sevilla is enchanting), and the food? Absolutely fantastic. Sometimes the best travel experiences come from saying yes to the unexpected—and sometimes they come from having a partner with serious FOMO who isn't afraid to ask doormen impossible questions.
El Traga Seville Spain
Shopping Local
Now, let's talk about something crucial: shopping in Sevilla without looking like you just fell off the tour bus. Yes, Calle Sierpes gets crowded with tourists, but it's still fun, lively, and undeniably beautiful. When the crowds became too much, we'd simply veer off into the maze of neighborhoods and discover hidden gems.
For the Design-Conscious Traveler:
Skip the obvious and head to The Exvotos in the Macarena district, a distinctive creative space run by artists Daniel Maldonado and Luciano Galán. This small workshop and gallery explores the intersection of traditional Andalusian art and contemporary design, famous for their ceramic sculptures called Cabeza Recipientes (container heads).
La Importadora in the lively Alfalfa neighborhood is a unique shop-gallery hybrid that blends fashion, design, and art, offering a curated selection of national and international brands alongside the founder's own creations. It's where quirky menswear meets contemporary art—exactly the kind of find that makes you feel like a travel genius.
For the Luxury Lover:
Palazzo Belli, housed in a historic building once known as "the palace without balconies," offers a curated selection of designer labels like Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, and Versace. The interior is a harmonious blend of modern luxury and traditional Andalusian architecture with polished brass, green onyx, and velvet accents.
For the Home Design Enthusiast:
El Patio de la Loza specializes in home décor with a curated selection of ceramics, glassware, lighting, and decorative accessories that add a touch of Sevilla elegance to your space. The store itself is thoughtfully designed to showcase products in an aesthetically pleasing manner.
For the Fashion-Forward:
The area around "Las Setas" (The Mushrooms) has spawned a smart shopping area called Soho Benita. Isadora sells attire and accessories by emerging Spanish designers, while streets like Calles Tetuán, Velazquez, and Sierpes are lined with the classiest outlets in town for shoe lovers.
The Flamenco Fashion Experience
You cannot—and I repeat, CANNOT—leave Sevilla without understanding its flamenco fashion culture. The flamenco dress is the only regional dress that evolves according to fashion trends, combining folk tradition with glamour that gets renewed every year by excellent designers.
The International Flamenco Fashion fair (SIMOF) is held annually in Seville and accounts for over $250 million in domestic and international sales. Even if you're not buying a full dress, the accessories are irresistible: hand-embroidered mantones (shawls) that add elegance to any outfit, ornamental combs, and cloth flowers that follow the "bigger is better" rule.
For authentic pieces, head to the shops around Calle Francos, parallel to Avenida de la Constitución, which is lined with flamenco fashion stores. The craftsmanship is incredible, and many pieces can be tailored in-house.
When The GPS Failed So Did Our Ability to Adult
But here's where our Sevilla story takes a dramatic turn. Mabel and I rented a car (cue nervous laughter), put on what I like to call our "big girl, brave panties," and headed for the countryside. We got lost. And I mean spectacularly lost—like, old dirt road in the middle of a sunflower field lost. Our relationship was hanging by a thread when we finally did the smart thing and called our destination for rescue.
Hacienda de San Rafael: Instant Love
We arrived at Hacienda de San Rafael with frayed nerves and barely speaking to each other. All of that evaporated the moment we stepped into the beautiful courtyard. We were greeted like family—glasses of wine appeared, snacks materialized, and suddenly I was ready to move in permanently.
The room? Pure rustic elegance. Large with a loft sitting area, a giant bathroom, and here's the kicker: breakfast served every morning on your own private terrace overlooking the courtyard. I'm not exaggerating when I say it felt like heaven.
That first night, we had the entire courtyard dining setup to ourselves since the other guests went out. Que romántico doesn't even begin to cover it, and the food was absolutely delicious.
We spent the next day exploring the grounds and lounging by one of four pools scattered around the property. Lunch and cocktails were delivered poolside—again, heavenly. The Hacienda has been in the owner's family for several hundred years, and you truly feel like family while you're there.
When it came time to leave, we were genuinely sad. But I know we'll be back to this magical place.
The Sevilla State of Mind
The vibe in Sevilla is something special—friendly, charming, and effortlessly easy-going. The architecture is enchanting (I promise I'll stop using that word, but it's just so accurate), and there's no shortage of delightful discoveries around every corner.
My only regret? Not booking the Alcázar in advance. If you want to visit, get your tickets ahead of time and go early in the morning. But honestly, if crowds aren't your scene, there are plenty of other sites and activities, including impromptu flamenco shows in park areas that capture the city's soul just as beautifully.
The Bottom Line
Sevilla is a dream—the kind that stays with you long after you wake up. It's a city that rewards wandering, embraces spontaneity, and somehow makes everyone feel like they belong. From the shopping discoveries that you'll treasure forever to the countryside escapes that restore your soul, Sevilla delivers magic at every turn.
Next up: Our white hilltop village adventure in Vejer de la Frontera, where the journey gets even more enchanting (if that's even possible).
Have you fallen under Sevilla's spell? What was your favorite discovery? Share in the comments—I'm already planning my return trip!